Rather tight at the moment, but well-structured and refined, with cherry and currant flavors accented by notes of underbrush and cedar as this builds tension toward wiry tannins.

This sturdy, well-concentrated Merlot-based blend offers tempting black and blue fruits, velvety tannins and an almost sweet fruitiness that leads to a lingering finish. Notes of cocoa, vanilla and chocolate cherries give plenty to appreciate. Best through 2030. 92 POINTS

The result is an aroma of toasty almond and ripe mango, plus a rich palate of chamomile, peaches, and notes of vanilla. A hint of oak lingers in the long finish.

At the end of the meal, Barbara simply said, “Let’s drink the ÂME more often.” She’s right. We won’t be having it just on special occasions now.